Pond Maintenance

  1. Perform skimmer & filter maintenance: Empty the leaf basket, rinse the heavy muck out of the skimmer mat with pond-temperature water (don’t sterilize), backflush pressure filters or similar applicable maintenance required by your filtration system.
  2. Check the pH levels and adjust as needed to keep the pH between 6.8 and 9.0.
  3. Monitor ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels if needed. These are not usually a problem in established ponds unless there have been significant changes, like an extreme clean.
  4. Check that all equipment is working, observing the pump, UV (if any), aeration and filtration. Respond to any problems that you see.
  5. Physically remove large debris from the pond, brush off major algae strings from the falls and trim plants that are blocking the water flow, etc.
  6. Top off the water level of your pond as needed (adding dechlorinator if needed).
  7. Monitor your stock of fish food and other supplies. We will be happy to serve you when product needs arise.
  8. Feeding your fish is not a chore, but a pleasure. Regular feeding makes your fish friendly and accessible, but overfeeding increases pond problems. Unless you are trying to accelerate growth, feed the fish sparingly, once or twice a day, never feed more than what they completely consume in a couple of minutes
  9. Algae Control:
    • Sunlight and warmth also aid algae. Therefore, ponds should be deep enough to stay cooler & to dilute the penetration of the sun. Shade also helps.
    • Finally, there is the nutrition that feeds the ammonia cycle and produces the nutrients algae needs to accelerate growth. Overfeeding or overpopulating the pond, or allowing excess organic matter to collect in the pond, leads to a build-up of nutrients in the pond, facilitating algae growth. Clean out filters often so that the trapped dirt doesn’t leach nutrients back into the water, and remove dead organic matter from the water system.
    • Removing organic matter is greatly aided by the regular use of beneficial bacteria. A healthy bacteria colony cycles through dead organic matter quickly, so we recommend using beneficial bacteria regularly.

Koi Pond Filtration System

There are many documented kinds of water filtration system for the pond. Many companies have designed water treatment products. These products usually consists of a combination of the following:

  • Mechanical
  • Biological
  • Chemical
  • Bead filter
  • Vegetation/plant filter
  • Trickle tower

Mechanical Filter

Aims to remove physical debris from the water. This debris would be any solids that ought to be removed from the water including fallen leaves and insects and uneaten fish food and solid fish waste. The mechanical filter is usually the first stage in a filter system, and it could be in the form of a simple mesh or combination of large brushes.

The Biological Filter

Aims to cultivate a colony of bacteria that does the actual conversion of ammonia to nitrite and from nitrite (NO2) to nitrate (NO3). The discussion often goes into what is the best media to grow these bacteria. Most widely used are filter mats, ceramic media and also crushed coral chips or sea-shells contained in bags made of mesh nettings. The coral chips and sea-shells served a dual purpose of buffering and controlling the pH level of the pond water. Any increased in water acidity would dissolve more carbonates in the filter and hence maintaining a constant ph.

Bead Filter

The bead filter uses tiny beads as a filter media to provide biological filtration.

Chemical filter

Most commonly used are activated carbons as an absorbent. These are sometimes used in aquariums filter but not practical for use in a pond filter.

Vegetable or plant filter

Using water plants to absorb nitrates.

The common rule of thumb is that the size of filter should be one third the size of the pond.